The Allum Family
There are always a few alliums in my fridge. They are a diverse group including chives, dry or regular onions, shallots and garlic, along with leeks, scallions and green onions.
Green onions and scallions share the most similarities. They are simply the immature shoots of onions, the only visible difference being the base at the end of long, straight greens. Green onions show the beginning of a bulb formation, while true scallions (from a particular variety of white onion) are harvested before the bulb forms. Aficionados contend that although the two are interchangeable in recipes, scallions are sweeter and milder in flavor.
Leeks are the largest of the group. Because they are milder than most other alliums, I use them to add their sweet, oniony flavor to soups, stews, pastas and side dishes. The thick shank of the leek grows mainly under the surface of the soil. Shanks vary in size from three-quarters of an inch to two inches in diameter and 10 to 18 inches long. During the slow growing period of four to five months, the multi-layered shoots of each leek push upward, gathering grit and dirt between the tightly rolled, flat leaves. This calls for some thorough cleaning and prep work.
Chives are one of my favorite alliums to use in companion planting in the garden or to add a zesty garnish to cheeses, soups, meats and salads. Chives have a sulfur-based oil contributing to the flavors I enjoy. Those same oils also help repel many insects in the garden, while the purple flower heads attract bees. I plant a few near my rose bushes, apple trees and between the rows of carrots, lettuce, tomatoes and peas.
Fresh and storage onions are types of dry onions. The local fresh or sweet onion harvest starts in March and includes red, yellow and white varieties. Their lack of pyruvate (the chemical that causes eye-tearing) makes them sweet and mild, but a high water and sugar content limits their storage capabilities. Storage onions grow during the summer and harvest begins in the fall. They are yellow, white or red-skinned, are stronger tasting, thicker skinned, less watery and better keepers than sweet onions.
Shallots grow in bulbs like onions, but cluster together like garlic. Once the shallot skin is removed, they break into cloves like a head of garlic. These cloves are flat on one side, curved on the other and have onion-type layers when sliced. These are my go-to for so many dishes since they do not overpower other flavors.
The Orinda Farmers’ Market is open every Saturday from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. on Orinda Way in Orinda Village. More information is available at www.cccfm.org, facebook.com/OrindaFarmersMarket and Instagram @OrindaFarmersMarket or call the market hotline at 925.322.6228.
Cast Iron Frittata
8 large eggs
¼ cup milk
Salt and pepper to taste
¼ cup grated cheddar cheese
1 tablespoon each olive oil and butter
¼ cup red onion finely chopped
1 leek, trimmed, rinsed well and thinly sliced
6 spears asparagus, washed, trimmed and cut into ½ inch pieces
Whisk eggs, milk, salt, pepper and cheese. Heat oil and butter in a 9-inch cast iron pan over medium heat. Add onion and leeks and sauté 3 to 4 minutes. Add asparagus and cook for 2 more minutes. Add and stir in egg mixture. Cover, reduce heat and cook for 4 minutes. Uncover skillet and place in 350 degree oven for 10 to 12 minutes or until center is set.
Effie Eliahu sells free range and pasture-raised eggs from Stueve Family Farms in Oakdale, ready to whisk up with market onions, leeks and asparagus for a fabulous frittata.
