Summertime is tomato time
I only use tomatoes in the summer when they add color, and most important, flavor to my dishes.
So now’s the time to make a caprese salad with thick slices of tomato and mozzarella topped with fresh basil, olive oil and a balsamic reduction. Grilled tomatoes, fresh salsas, bruschetta and stuffed tomatoes are also on the menu. Oh my.
I’m talking about fresh harvest, vine-ripened field tomatoes. These are allowed to ripen on the vine to develop full flavor before being picked. Those picked “mature” green for shipping purposes in the commercial market will change from green to their full ripe color when exposed to heat and ethylene gas, but don’t capture the vine-ripened flavor. If I find myself with a few green tomatoes, I set them in a bag with a banana or apple, which give off ethylene gas, to speed up the ripening process.
Each tomato season introduces more shapes, sizes and colors of this member of the nightshade family. Varieties such as Beefsteak, Early Girl and Celebrity are just a few of the large, red tomatoes prized for slicing thick to top a perfectly grilled hamburger.
Cherry tomatoes, from the tiny red currant to the yellow pear, make quick snacks and colorful garnishes. Green tomatoes, the unripe tomato of any variety, are used for pickling or frying and are best when green all the way through.
Heirloom tomatoes are in abundance. These are old fashioned varieties passed down through generations and come in a rainbow of colors with creative names and stories associated with their origins.
The flavors are outstanding. Handle with care since they are more fragile than other varieties grown to withstand the rigors of shipping. Favorites in my shopping bag include Cherokee Purple, Brandywine, Golden Jubilee and Green Zebra.
Any type of tomato is a candidate for cooking, but the egg-shaped Roma (also called Italian or plum) tomato is the ideal choice. Its thick meaty walls, small seeds and rich flavor make it suited for sauces, soups, salads and canning.
Yellow tomato varieties tend to be milder and less acidic. Sun Gold cherry tomatoes are popular as a sweet pop-in-your-mouth treat. My choice for large, yellow slicing tomatoes are Lemon Boy and Amana Orange.
The best tomatoes are smooth, well-shaped and heavy for their size. They should be richly colored for their variety and emit a sweet, subtle aroma. If necessary allow to ripen at room temperature and use within a few days. Do not refrigerate – it affects the flavor and texture.
Are tomatoes a fruit or a vegetable? Botanically, tomatoes are fruits, but in 1893, the United States Supreme Court declared them vegetables for trade purposes – and that ruling reflects their use, as in the culinary world they are used more widely as a vegetable in savory dishes.
Either way, they’re at their peak now, and vine-ripened tomatoes can be found at the Orinda Farmers’ Market, which is open every Saturday from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. on Orinda Way in Orinda Village. More information is available at cccfm.org Facebook.com/OrindaFarmersMarket and Instagram @OrindaFarmersMarket or call the market hotline at 925.322.6228.
Roasted Cherry Tomato Sauce
3 pounds cherry tomatoes, stems removed
1/3 cup olive oil
1 medium onion, diced
1 tablespoon fresh minced garlic
10 to 12 basil leaves (or more if you like)
1-2 teaspoons dried thyme
Salt and pepper to taste
Toss tomatoes with 3 tablespoons of the olive oil. Spread out onto a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet. Roast at 400 degrees for 25 to 30 minutes until the tomatoes burst and are just beginning to shrivel.
Add remaining olive oil to a sauce pot. Heat over medium high. Add onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until they begin to sweat and soften, about 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook for 2 more minutes. Add the roasted tomatoes (with any liquid), basil, thyme, salt and pepper.
Turn heat to low, partially cover with the lid and simmer for 45 minutes to an hour. Stir occasionally. Let cool for 20 to 25 minutes. Transfer sauce to a blender or use an immersion blender to blend to desired consistency. Serve with your favorite pasta. Makes about 8 cups. May be refrigerated for 5 or 6 days or frozen for up to 3 months.
Whether I pick them from my garden or buy them at the farmer’s market, cherry tomatoes fill me with flavor and plenty of Vitamins A and C.
