Safforn’s tandoori chicken takes time to prepare, but the result -- roasted on bone, marinated in yogurt with garlic, ginger and roasted in a clay oven – showcases the restaurant’s commitment to traditional North Indian cooking. Whole spices imported from India are ground fresh daily and elevate the recipes perfected by family patriarch and chef Amrit Lal Sharma (“Mr. Lal”).
“It’s all about the spices,” said Ravi Kant Pathak, “and how you use them.”
And thanks to chef Amrit Lal Sharma – known as “Mr. Lal” – and spices direct from Indian vendors, Saffron has become one of Theatre Square’s bedrock restaurants.
But oddly enough, Saffron only uses saffron in its desserts, focusing more on the traditional North Indian spices like cardamom, coriander, cumin, tamarind and cloves for the bulk of the menu. And that menu is crafted by Mr. Lal, Pathak’s father-in-law.
“He’s the chef,” said Pathak. “He’s the backbone of the restaurant. We all learn from him.”
And though Saffron opened in Orinda in 2018, Mr. Lal had already built his reputation with a series of restaurants in Boston. When another son-in-law, Sachin, moved to California, Mr. Lal soon followed, and they took over the Wild Magnolia space in Theatre Square.
“At that point, we felt it was important for all of us to be together,” said Pathak. “I was living in Pittsburgh (PA) at the time, but we decided as a family that it made more sense to come together here.” So now Sachin and his wife Rubina, and Pathak and his wife Vandana, all work at the restaurant.
In addition, Pathak lives in Orinda and his children go to Wagner Ranch, as the family has become part of the fabric of Orinda. “Many of our customers are Wagner Ranch parents,” he said. “And we are deeply grateful for all who support us.”
But local roots don’t count for much if the food doesn’t keep customers coming back, and with Mr. Lal in charge of the kitchen, the spices – imported directly from India – give the food an authentic feel.
“There are many spice agents,” said Pathak, “but Mr. Lal is so specific. If it doesn’t have the color or the smell, he won’t use it.”
Saffron offers diners a choice of spice levels, from mild to extra spicy, but even Pathak avoids the extra spicy. And those spice levels are adjusted daily. “Chilis aren’t consistent,” he said, “so we test them every day.”
Saffron’s cooks start with whole spices, said Pathak, “and then we grind them. It takes more time.”
And speaking of time, Pathak warns that orders of one of the house specialties – tandoori chicken – cannot be rushed. “If it comes in 10 minutes,” said Pathak, “it’s not tandoori chicken. We marinate the chicken for two days, and you should expect to wait at least 30 minutes after you order it.”
Saffron regulars, in fact, will call ahead so that the kitchen starts their order before they even arrive.
And Mr. Lal insists that the recipes do not overuse cream, which is a staple of many Indian dishes.
“He says if we use too much cream,” said Pathak, “the customers will be so full they won’t come back for a month.”
There is cream in the korma, of course, but other dishes? “If you’re making dal makhani, don’t use it.”
This careful focus on ingredients and preparation has paid off, as Saffron is one of the anchors of Theatre Square.
“We are part of the community,” said Pathak – a community that clearly cares about its spices.
